Mini-Guide Series #10: Skin Deep
Skincare Practices That Can Have a Significant Impact on Overall Health
Our society (unfortunately) puts significant emphasis on our appearance, including the condition of our skin. No wonder cosmetics and skincare are a billion-dollar industry.
As consumers, one important thing to know is that not all products are created equal. Some products may contribute to skin irritation or other health concerns, particularly with repeated or prolonged exposure to certain ingredients.
This post looks at what to look for in skincare and personal care products so that you can make more health-conscious, informed decisions about what you put on your skin.
Skin Can't Take That Much, Can It?
Skin may seem like a harmless, not-so-important part of the body. But it is actually the largest organ in the human body.
It covers our entire external surface, acts as a protective barrier, helps regulate body temperature and water loss, and sends sensory information to the brain. Our skin contains many nerve endings that allow us to sense temperature, texture, pressure, pain, and other sensations.
Skin is also a route of absorption. So, the skin can absorb substances that come into contact with it. In fact, there are many kinds of topical and transdermal medicines, from treatments for local skin conditions to hormone creams and nicotine patches, that are specifically designed to deliver substances through the skin.
Of course, this does not mean that everything we put on our skin is automatically absorbed into our bloodstream. How much a substance is absorbed depends on many factors, including the substance itself, its formulation and concentration, how long it stays on the skin, and the condition of the skin.
But the fact remains: what we put on our skin is worth paying attention to. Your skin may be only a few millimetres thick, but the conversation is not skin-deep. What we put on our skin is part of our overall health picture.
Not All Skincare Products Are Created Equal
There are so many products that come into contact with our skin: toner, moisturizer, shampoo, hair conditioner, makeup, nail polish, deodorant, sunscreen, soap, and more.
Literally, an entire shelf of a store can be devoted to one type of product, with another shelf dedicated to something else.
Some products sound completely benign. Others make you wonder what's actually inside them.
Each product contains different ingredients. But if these products are legally sold on the market, how can they contain ingredients that may raise health concerns?
That's a reasonable question.
In Canada, cosmetics are regulated and manufacturers are responsible for ensuring that their products are safe when used according to their directions or customary use. Health Canada also maintains a list of prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients and monitors safety information.
But “safe” does not necessarily mean that every ingredient is completely risk-free for every person, or that every question about long-term exposure has been definitively answered.
It also matters how often and how much we are exposed.
One common saying is:
“If you can't put it in your mouth, it shouldn't go on your skin.”
That's an extreme statement, skin and the digestive system are very different routes of exposure. But it does capture one useful idea: what we put on our bodies deserves some thought.
It's Just a Small Amount. Who Cares?
Yes, if it really is a very small amount and you encounter it only once, it would normally not be a major cause for concern.
But exposure isn't always a one-time event.
We may apply products to our skin every day, sometimes multiple times a day. We may use shampoo, conditioner, deodorant, moisturizer, makeup, sunscreen, and other personal care products regularly for years.
Some ingredients can also have biological activity at relatively low concentrations. Endocrine-disrupting chemicals are one area of ongoing scientific research.
Just like the thermal receipts we discussed in Mini-Guide #03: Why Avoid Thermal Receipts?, there may be many small exposures that are easy to overlook.
None of these exposures necessarily explains why someone feels unwell or is experiencing menstrual or breast concerns. But they can become blind spots when we look at the bigger picture of health.
The goal isn't to become afraid of every ingredient.
It's to become aware.
What to Avoid
There are many ingredients and ingredient categories worth knowing about. You don't need to memorise them all.
Fragrance / Parfum
If you want to simplify your skincare routine, choosing fragrance-free products is one reasonable place to start.
“Fragrance” or “parfum” can represent a mixture of many fragrance ingredients, and some fragrance ingredients can cause irritation or allergic reactions in susceptible people.
Fragrance-free is not the same thing as “natural,” and natural fragrances can also cause sensitivities.
Parabens
Methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and other parabens are preservatives used to prevent microbial growth.
Some parabens have weak estrogen-like activity in laboratory studies. However, this does not mean that ordinary cosmetic use has been shown to cause hormone-related problems in humans.
If your goal is to reduce unnecessary exposure to ingredients with potential endocrine activity, you may choose to avoid parabens.
Phthalates
Phthalates are used for different purposes in cosmetics, including as solvents, plasticisers, and components of fragrance formulations.
Some phthalates may not be individually identifiable on a consumer label when they are part of a fragrance mixture.
Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives
Ingredients such as DMDM hydantoin and quaternium-15 can slowly release small amounts of formaldehyde to preserve a product.
Formaldehyde can cause skin sensitisation and allergic reactions in some people. Health Canada regulates the amount permitted in cosmetics.
What To Look For
The simplest place to start is with fewer, simpler ingredients.You don't need to recognise every ingredient immediately. If you see something unfamiliar, look it up.And don't assume that a complicated chemical name means an ingredient is harmful.For example, tocopherol is vitamin E. Many naturally occurring substances have chemical names that sound intimidating.Likewise, “natural” does not automatically mean safer. Natural and synthetic ingredients can both be appropriate for use in cosmetics.As you learn more, you'll gradually become better at recognising which ingredients you personally want to avoid and which products work well for your needs.Until then, and even after you've found your favourite products, ingredient-scanning apps can be useful tools for learning.
INCI Beauty
INCI Beauty is designed for cosmetics and skincare. It scans products, provides ingredient information, and gives products a score based on its own assessment system.
INCI Beauty
EWG Healthy Living
EWG's Healthy Living app covers both food and personal care products, making it a useful companion to the Clean Fifteen & Dirty Dozen post in this Mini-Guide series.
EWG Healthy Living
Yuka
Yuka scans food and cosmetic products and provides a health-impact score using a colour-coded system.
Yuka
Remember that these apps are tools, not authorities. Their scoring systems and interpretations are not the same thing as a regulatory safety assessment. Use them to learn about ingredients and identify products you may want to investigate further, rather than treating a score as the final word on whether a product is safe.
Start Small
You don't have to replace everything in your bathroom.
Start with the products you use every day, especially leave-on products that remain on your skin for long periods.
Read the label. Look up unfamiliar ingredients. Notice what your skin tells you.
And gradually, you may find a few products that become your healthy favourites.
Think of it as a little treasure hunt for better health, one product at a time.